by trujm
People who watch me play are always amazed by how passive I SEEM, and compare it to my stats. They think to themselves ‘no way someone that passive can have such a high win %’. This assumption by them is the same idea that indirectly leads me to victory, as you will see in the article below.
For most people, this is perhaps the single hardest aspect about playing heads up Texas Hold Em: hyper aggressive opponents, and how to deal with them. More specifically, when your opponent is being consistently and significantly more aggressive than you know yourself to be. Some of the common questions asked about these type of opponents are:
1. How do I know when they actually have a hand?
2. How much should I risk with middle/bottom pair when
faced with a large bet?
3. They keep continuation betting over and over and over.
What should I do?
4. How do I play top pair, weak kicker when they
overbet the pot?
5. How do I play mid pocket pairs when facing the dreaded
continuation bet, and there’s an overcard on the board?
and perhaps most importantly…
6. When do I finally take a stand?
None of those questions are easy to answer, and it’s a good thing they’re not, because if they were no one would be able to make money playing poker, as we’d all just be breaking even in the long run. Those who figure out how to handle situations like these are the ones who will flourish and make money, and the ones who passively do nothing to fix the leaks in their game and adjust to these players will be the ones paying their bills. It takes a special kind of person/player to naturally know what to do in these types of situations. These kinds of players make up less than 1% of the population, so don’t worry about it if these solutions don’t naturally come to you. Thankfully, these instincts CAN also be learned, but it takes a lot of hard work - both on your part by understanding and implementing what I am telling you, and also on my part as a teacher by effectively communicating to you how to dissect these kinds of opponents. There’s a number of things you must understand before taking a course of action in any heads up match:
1. What they’re thinking.
In order to understand how to beat them, you need to understand what they’re thinking. If you give off any sort of weakness whatsoever, they’re going to feel like they can take the majority of pots off your hands without any resistance. And you know what? Most of the time, they’re right. That’s why you hear so much hype about “aggression, aggression, aggression, and more aggression.” The problem with these kinds of players is that they take that advice too much to heart. Some of them become so aggressive that it becomes reckless, and you need to recognize when it’s at that point, and how to take advantage of it.
So what is ‘reckless aggression’? You’ll know it when you see it. If an opponent raises 80% or more times preflop, and continuation bets 80% or more times on the flop, that’s pretty much reckless aggression. No one has a hand that often. You know it, and they know it. However, where you will make your money off of that concept is: they don’t know that you know that they know it. Now it’s time to do something about it. But how?
2. Know What they Think ABOUT You. If at any point, your opponent reveals their opinion of your playing style, they’re already putty in your hands. I’ve played against people dumb enough to say things like “Man are you gonna play a hand?,” and it always amazes me when they do, because you should never tell your opponent what you think about them.
With that being said, the majority of the time if someone is being overly aggressive with you, it’s either one of two things. (a) They believe you’re a weak-tight player, and that they can run all over you, or (b) They play like that all the time, regardless of their opponent. Either way, the ball is in your court because they don’t know that you’re willing to adapt to either circumstance.
Regarding the latter, it’s funny how it works sometimes, you’d think calling someone more would cause them to stop betting. However, sometimes with players of this type it makes them actually MORE likely to try harder to bluff you because they are too stubborn to believe that they cannot make you lay down a hand. If you are fortunate enough to be playing against someone like this, just flat calling them is usually the play of choice. Because if you raise, they’re going to fold if they’re bluffing (therefore preventing yourself from extracting chips in future betting rounds), and if you just call and on the off chance they have you beat, then you have minimized your losses. Of course, there are times when you’re going to want to raise for value, but these kinds of players hold nothing more often than they’re holding something so it’s actually more effective to let them do the betting for you.
On the other hand, if they are being aggressive with you because they believe you’re a weak tight player, then the solution is a little bit more complicated than the above case, but still nothing to worry about. Some people, including myself sometimes, operate better under the assumption that their opponent believes they are weak-tight. In this case, you have to be a little more patient: you have to feed your opponent information the whole match that they think is true, only to take them the other way later on in the game.
If they insist on taking pot after pot from you in the 10/20 blinds, let them! After they keep dragging pot after pot after pot, with little or no resistance, they’re thinking to themselves “man this is easy.” Remember, it’s not the amount of pots you win in heads up sit n gos, but rather the one who wins the biggest pots. To be honest with you, despite winning almost 61% of my heads up matches, I only win 44% of my hands! That’s because the bigger pots belong to me, as they should to you. With this “passive early on” strategy against aggressive opponents, what you’re doing is luring them into a false sense of security that you will take advantage of later on when the stakes are higher and the pots are bigger. Sometimes I even go out of my way to SHOW them they made a good decision in laying their hand down, when I have, say, pocket aces or a set early on. It builds credibility for yourself, and more importantly, engraves the idea in his head: “when he pushes, he has it.” I can’t stress this enough: take them one way in the beginning, only to take them in a totally different direction later on in the game.
3. Fight Fire with Fire
If you opponent is weak-aggressive, then any of the two above tactics will work wonders for you. However, against more skilled opponents, there’s really only one way to combat it. Like any good friend would tell the other one at times when they are constantly getting picked on: stand up for yourself. If you need help, start thinking about the odds of the particular situation a little more. If you’ve been dealt K8 preflop, you have King high, and King high is usually the best hand preflop in a heads up match. Let me explain:
If you’ve been dealt one King, theres only 3 left in the deck. Add that to 4 aces and that means your opponent has two chances to be dealt 3 cards that conditionally tie you, and 4 cards that beat you. 49 cards are unseen at the point of the hand, so that gives your opponent 7 outs (3 of them still conditional as they’d have to be dealt a second card higher than 8 to have you beat) to tie or beat you. If you were all in against a lone opponent who had 7 outs with two cards left to come, you’d be ahead, wouldn’t you? Throw in the minuscule 1/16 chance that your opponent was dealt a pocket pair, and you start to realize how strong a hand like K8 is heads up. And what’s more? Add this to the fact that on the off chance that if your opponent has you beat at the moment, you can still outdraw them on the flop. My point is: don’t be afraid to push back.
How to “fight fire with fire” in this circumstance depends on what you want to accomplish out of this tactic and also how deep you are into the sit n go. If you don’t like being faced with hard decisions and would prefer a more tame opponent, and you are in the beginning stages of the match, my suggestion would be to make an early play back at someone to send a message that you are not to be taken lightly the whole match, and they need to be proceed with caution before throwing chips in the pot. This is a more effective line of action against a stronger opponent, because it’s not a very pleasant experience to have someone who knows what they’re doing fire bullet after bullet at you. (See: Phil Ivey).
Showing someone you’re willing to play back at them might not make them slow down any, but it will implant the seed of doubt in their mind that you may be getting sick of them pushing you around. If this is the case, you need to do nothing more than value bet your hands, and stand up for yourself with a modest hand when you believe you are just being pushed around. The strength of the hands you decide to take a stand with should be in direct correlation with the blinds:
NOTE: THESE ARE JUST GENERAL GUIDELINES I FOLLOW AND VARY BASED ON PARTICULAR OPPONENTS. I BASE THIS LIST OFF OF “AVERAGE” A-B-C AGGRESSIVE OPPONENTS
(a) 10/20 blinds: AKs+, 10-10+
(b) 15/30 blinds: AQs+, 9-9+
(c) 25/50 blinds: AJs+, 8-8+
(d) 50/100 blinds: A8s+, any pocket pair
(e) 75/100 blinds: Any Ace, K8+
As you can see, the higher the blinds, the lower the requirements for your calling/shoving range. Keep in mind these ranges when you switch up your style from TAG to LAG, which should probably happen around halfway through the 25-50 round.
So in conclusion, while I cannot give you a direct answer to any of those annoying questions that come up during the course of a match, you are now better equipped to handle opponents who try to muscle you around. It’s going to take time to fully adjust to them, and no one single article can patch a leak this big. However, you are definitely on the right track by having read this, and I will definitely cover more on this topic later. Stay tuned.
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